Why Climbing Helmets Matter and How They Can Save Your Life

Climbing safety is everyone’s responsibility, and it’s something our editorial team are incredibly passionate about. Our Tale of Whoa column is our continued commitment to creating a culture of safety within our community. This edition we welcome guest contributor Brendon Flanagan, Sydney Operations Manager at the Australian School of Mountaineering, with a deep dive into the evolution and importance of helmets.

Whether you’re a seasoned dirtbag living out of a van or a weekend warrior hitting your favourite crags, every climber relies on equipment for protection. Depending on the chosen discipline, climbers will use specific gear tailored to their pursuit. Boulderers use aggressively designed shoes, crash pads, chalk buckets, and beanies. Sport climbers rely on fixed protection, matching quickdraws, the latest assisted braking device, and a quiver of shoes. Trad climbers, on the other hand, require a double set of cams, nuts, hexes, a pink tricam, dozens of alpine quickdraws, a plethora of slings, several bunches of locking and non-carabiners, and a pair of neutral shoes worn in through extensive climbing. 

One piece of equipment that doesn’t see as much use as it could is the helmet. Equipment plays a crucial role in ensuring our safety as we engage in what could be considered one of the world’s most high risk sports. 

Throughout the years, climbers have recognised the need for equipment that can withstand the rigors of their environment. To meet these demands, they have either modified existing products for climbing or developed entirely new innovations. Every single piece of equipment we use has undergone stages of evolution, resulting in improvements that make them stronger, lighter, and more efficient.

In the past, climbers relied heavily on the reputation of well known companies or brands, such as Chouinard Equipment, to trust that their gear would perform as intended. However, as technology and access to information progressed, the demand for transparency in testing requirements and technical data grew. As a result, modern climbers are proactive and well informed, actively seeking data and facts about the gear they use. Outside of reputable websites such as RopeLab Online and YouTube Channel HowNOT2, our equipment must perform to the standards set out by the European Committee for Standardisation (CEN). These standards are known as the European Norm (EN). Since this article addresses the use of helmets, the relevant standard is EN 12492:2012, which covers safety requirements and test methods for mountaineering helmets.

Head injuries in climbing and abseiling often occur due to falling rocks, dropped equipment, navigating overhangs, or as a consequence of a fall. Recognising these risks, climbers and abseilers understand the importance of wearing helmets. Nevertheless, despite this awareness, it remains common for many individuals to forgo wearing helmets. Australian climbing icon Glenn Tempest got straight to the point in his 1996 publication, where he stated the reluctance for wearing a helmet was due to vanity, because wearing a helmet is simply not “cool”. It’s unfortunate that there are climbers today who still prioritise appearance over safety.

In 2020, separate studies were carried out in the United Kingdom and the United States concerning the underutilisation of climbing helmets. These studies drew upon data and insights provided by the British Mountaineering Council and the American Alpine Club, respectively. Both studies concluded that comfort, functionality, and aesthetics were the reasons behind why climbers continue to shun helmets. Despite the prevalence of traumatic brain injuries and lacerations, these factors continue to influence their decision to forgo helmet use.

On November 10th, 2017, a climber from Sydney narrowly escaped a fatal accident whilst belaying at a newly developed Blue Mountains crag. A rock, weighing approximately 15kg and larger than a human head, was dislodged and fell 15 meters to strike the belayer directly on the helmet. Members of the group promptly responded by providing medical attention. The next step was to call emergency services, but as fate would have it there was no mobile reception. To make matters even worse, no one had an EPIRB. Two members of the group had to make the mad scramble back to the cars and drive for 30 minutes before they could finally make the call.

Emergency Services arrived by helicopter and were lowered to the scene before stabilising the belayer. Due to the surrounding terrain, the helicopter was unable to safely winch the belayer out. Instead, the climbers and medical responders had to stretcher him to a safer extraction point, which consumed valuable time. Once on board, the injured belayer was transported to Liverpool Hospital’s Intensive Care Unit, where staff confirmed a traumatic brain injury. A large portion of his skull was removed, allowing doctors to perform the necessary surgery that saved his life. Now, take a moment to consider what the outcome might have been if he hadn’t been wearing a helmet.

Countless climbers came to visit, seeing their friend lying in a coma, his head swollen to the size of a watermelon, unrecognisable to those who knew him. Kim was not the only victim. This traumatic sight would be etched in his friends’ memories forever. If you’ve ever experienced a traumatic event, you know what I mean—the memory never fades. Whilst the helmet, a 1990’s Cassin hardshell, was far from aesthetically pleasing, it undoubtedly saved his life. 

One of the victim’s friends who witnessed the accident and was a first responder, struggled to process what he had seen. To help manage his own trauma, he documented the incident in a journal, including the two days of climbing leading up to it. This method of self help resulted in 45 pages of text and photos, but more importantly, it contained several lessons learned. One of these lessons coincidentally echoed Glenn Tempest’s frustration: “Always, always wear a helmet” … “I don’t know why climbers don’t wear helmets” … “Maybe it’s a fashion statement or ignorance” … “I would rather be alive than cool.” These words of wisdom, born from a tragic event, will hopefully resonate with every climber who reads them. 

Anecdotal summary? Always wear a helmet. Always pack a first aid kit. Always carry a registered EPIRB. And take a first aid course. This event should serve as a sobering reminder of the potential consequences of neglecting safety gear. As the great Chante Fisk once said,

“Safety never takes a holiday!”

This article appeared in Edition 49 of Vertical Life Magazine SUMMER 2024. Grab your copy here