How Claire Williams got her shot on Spasm in the Chasm

Like all good climbing photographers, Claire was prepared for dangling off the end of a rope, dragging heavy camera gear up the cliff and getting all up in her climber’s personal space. Next time she reckons she might plan ahead to factor in a sketchy traverse and high wind though…

Spasm in the Chasm, an epic grade 25, 3 star mixed climb at Mt Arapiles, is located in a steep and chilly tunnel. It provides all day shade on those scorching days in the Wimmera heat. 

Dean Bailey had made it his newest project after hearing there was a dyno move. He was determined to make some progress on linking up cruxes and I came along to capture it. 

It was nearing the end of the day when we first went to scope it out. We had done a few climbs, but decided to check out the route and set up my fixed line, ready for photography the following day. The best option for a fixed line was on the same anchor at the top of the climb. It would provide some great angles to capture the climber up close. 

Getting to the top of the cliffs was easy with only a little bit of a rock scramble. The anchors however were an awkward placement for top access, with glassy slopers and hidden feet. It was located to the left of a large boulder with a short fixed rope to use as a safety when traversing across to the anchors and the 25m drop directly below. 

Upon arriving Dean decided that he wanted to have a few attempts that evening. This meant I would also have the opportunity to capture the climb at two different times of the day. But first I had to get up the line so I could photograph it. 

I put my grigri on the short rope near the anchor and began my traverse. While it made it slower to get across, it also meant it would be less of a fall if I slipped. As I made slow movements, my camera tapped against the rocks adding more discomfort to the precarious situation. Unable to see my feet as I moved, my fingers desperately tried to glue themselves to the sloped rope. 

“Where are the jugs?” I yelled desperately.

Dean and Dave Willing (Slippy Dave) are familiar with my discomfort in traverses and basked in the moment, yelling unhelpful comments and laughing at my expense. They were at the base of the climb, 25m below me and couldn’t have helped if they wanted.

Images of previous traverses like Pagoda in Moonarie and The Initiation at Mt Buffalo flashed through my head. Whilst this was an easier traverse, I had to add in the weight of a heavy static rope hanging off my harness, my camera slung over my shoulder, and a camera bag on my back. 

Those who know me, know that a traverse is my own personal hell. From the moment I reached the top access point I knew it wasn’t going to be fun. I could feel my emotions heighten and my eyes started welling up. 

“Suck it up Claire, it’s only a few metres,” I told myself sternly, trying push the tears back. 

Why did I put  myself in this situation, I wondered. 

Could I have done this smarter? Absolutely. 

But why didn’t I? Good question and I didn’t really know the answer, other than thinking I’d rather rappel down to take the photographs, rather than have to ascend the rope from the base of the cliff. 

I felt around for the non-existent jugs and hoped I didn’t slip off the slopers. Slowly I made my way across, unable to see my feet as I moved, the camera still tapping on the rock with each movement. I finally reached the anchors and locked myself on, taking a sigh of relief as I lowered my weight onto my PAS.

After rappelling down halfway I set my gear up so I was able to ascend. Already on a grigri, I attached a hand ascender above me which was connected to a secondary personal anchor system. In training I was always taught to have two points of contact on the rope. I then attached my pulley onto the top of the ascender with the break strand running through it.

Dave had a few attempts on the climb. It was his first time trying it and Dean wanted to give him the chance to get the onsite. This gave me the opportunity to get some photos and test my lighting and other camera settings. 

For the lower half of the climb I was hanging, swimming in space and treading air in an effort to prevent myself from spinning. However, there was a bit of a breeze running through the tunnel which made movement quite difficult to control. Eventually I gave up and let myself twirl, trying to time each rotation to lock onto Dave as I went around. 

Fortunately by the time Dave was done and Dean was ready to begin the wind had settled. As I moved higher up the rock I was able to straddle myself on the wall above the first dyno. Dean would leap to the dyno and he’d pass through my straddled legs on the wall. It was quite an up close way to go about getting the shot.

The following day we returned to see if Dean could get the send. This gave me the chance to refine my angles more, and focus on other parts of the climb worth capturing. And on Monday 18th March, Dean got the send on his last burn of the day.