Hobart, Tasmania new rock climbing crag: Genesis

***URGENT UPDATE*** Since publishing this article, Vertical Life has been made aware that several fixed anchors at Genesis failed under load testing on or around 10 September 2024. We understand the issues are currently under investigation for rectification.  Please refer to thecrag.com for updates on when it is safe to access. Vertical Life recommends that readers do not climb at the location described in this article before the safety of the bolts has been assured.

A newly developed crag just 20 minutes from Hobart brings even more rock options for climbers looking for vertical metres on Tasmania’s classic sea cliffs. VL regular Dave Barnes tells the story of the infamously chossy cliff he was determined to develop.

Three years ago Conrad Walsburough and I went on a sea level traverse of the Alum Cliffs between Kingston and Hinsby Beach in Hobart. It was a glorious day as we navigated the boulders while looking up at towering walls of choss. Amongst it all I saw a group of walls that had more clean rock than shale. I was keen to have a closer inspection. A week later I rapped down the wall and saw a bucket full of potential. Countless hours and 50 wire brushes later, that place is named Genesis. 

At the time, climbers were hearing frequent, foreboding news of closures at the Grampians, Arapiles, and Mount Warning. I wanted to make sure that this crag was kosher. I liaised with Local Council, State Government (Crown Land), and The Aboriginal Land Council of Tasmania. I shared who I was, what part of the cliff I wished to develop and what that involved. I asked if there were any environmental or cultural elements climbers needed to respect. 

Each in their own time got back to me. Local Council had no issue as Genesis was on Crown Land. The Crown had no issue as long as I built no tracks and respected nesting birds. I consulted with traditional owners who thanked me for approaching them and sent me a list of recognised cultural areas nearby and what to look out for if I came by any. Provisions were established for that if I did. Three green lights. I was ready to progress. 

Paul Pritchard had dabbled on these cliffs in previous years. I assisted establish some climbs at Hinsby Beach. I knew this rock. The thing is though, most of it is a pile of vertical choss. The Alum Cliffs are made of Permian Mudstone. The metal smell of the rock is from the aluminium found within. The mud part needs discernment when climbing but once cleaned, sound rock is plentiful. Blocks of good rock are crossed by dirty breaks which on established routes have been cleaned. The breaks offer a welcome rest and often a knee bar. 

The first route completed took five days of cleaning and bolting. A Wind Hovered (18) was the beginning. The climbs on either side stay with the biblical theme of the crag, so the route names read, left to right: In The Beginning (21),  A Wind Hovered (18), Over The Ocean (18). 

Subsequent to my early forays I kept returning, dragging friends along. With their help, I have established 14 routes with a combined length of over 300m of climbing. Several of them are really good. In fact, Tim Macartney Snape gave them the stamp of approval, saying, “A beautiful location and the climbing is good training for Everest.”

There are some mixed routes, but to ensure safety 12mm and 10mm stainless steel glue in ring bolts protect climbers, and double ring anchors mean climbers can avoid the loose shale edge at the top of the cliff. Many of the rings have been painted black to keep routes inconspicuous to non-climbers. 

Genesis has some aces in its hold: thoughtful climbing in a stunning location above deep water, a 20 minute drive from the city, and only an eight-minute walk in. There’s a convenient access gully to the base of the crag, and sport routes of 20 to 30 metres. Climbing here requires sound skills. As a measure you should be able to comfortably climb two grades higher than any climb grade here. 

Dave’s favourites

Edge of Eve (19): a long arete that keeps you thinking all the way to the top.  

Braveheart (20): a beautiful face and looks just as stunning. 

In The Beginning (21): A cracker from beginning to end with a series of technical moves as the wall steepens. 

The Open Book of Enoch (22): On the steeper side for Genesis, it follows a seam through bulges with multiple puzzles to solve. After The Storm (20): A sporty shorter route at far left end of the crag. It has you strolling up a clean wall with a crux plum in the middle.  

What to bring

18 draws

60m rope

Trad gear if you want to do Camnivorous Corner (18) or Hold The Line (17).

Third climber for photos—if you want to capture the magic, shoot from the top

The usuals (helmet, belay device, safety line, water, etc.)

Access 

Drive past Shot Tower on Channel Highway. Turn left on Taronga Road, and park at the end. Access to the Alum Cliffs Track runs between the houses (there is a sign to show the way). On reaching the Alum Cliffs track proper, turn right and proceed past creek gully. When on the flat again, keep going for 50 metres, turn left off the main track following green tape markers on trees. This brings you to the cliff, near the top of A Wind Hovered. You can rap in from a tree here. Alternatively, follow the creek gully to the bottom of the cliff—the gully has a four-metre rope to assist in the final scramble to the base of the climbs. Warning: The top of this crag is loose. Use caution above and below cliff on uneven surfaces. Use existing access options.