Field tested: Arc'teryx Vertex Alpine Review

Key Details – Arc’teryx Vertex Alpine Review

• Type: Hybrid trail runner x approach shoe
• Best For: Fast-and-light climbers, scramblers, alpine missions
• Weight: ~340g per shoe
• Drop: 8mm (18mm heel / 10mm toe)
• Sole: Vibram® XS Flash 2 with 4mm lugs and climbing zone
• Upper: Durable Matryx® fabric (non-waterproof version in AU/NZ)
• Fit: Narrow last, runs slightly large (go down half a size)
• RRP: $300.00 AUD
• Pros: Scrambles better than runners, runs better than approach shoes
• Cons: Long break-in time, hard to get on

The term ‘approach shoe’ gets thrown around a lot, and I feel like the concept has been somewhat diluted (a bit like softshells). The thing that makes an approach shoe a ‘real’ approach shoe is its ability to handle increasingly technical terrain, right up until the point you have to put on actual climbing shoes. The more climbing you can get away with in your approach shoes, the better (I’ve seen someone climb 28 in the gym with approach shoes).The problem with real approach shoes though, is they’re heavy, less cushioned, and suck to run in (for fast alpine ascents or FKTs). A lot of climbers opt to use trail runners instead, since they tend to be more comfortable, lighter, cheaper, less bulky, and useful outside the world of climbing. The downside with trail runners is that they’re usually less durable, offer less protection, lack sticky rubber, and aren’t stiff enough for technical scrambling, climbing, and crampon use. The Vertex Alpine is designed to fit neatly between categories, leaning slightly more towards being a running shoe that can scramble/climb, than an approach shoe that can run.

Like most Arc’teryx shoes, the Vertex has a slightly narrow last that took some breaking in to accommodate my wide-ish feet. I also find Arc’teryx’s sizing to run a bit big, so I went down a half US size for my usual fit. The first time I wore the Vertex, I was surprised by the sheer amount of tension running through the shoe, particularly at the heel—it almost feels like a climbing shoe! They also take a good amount of pulling to get on your foot (again, just like a climbing shoe). This is partially due to the mini sock gaiter (which is handy for keeping scree and other crap out), partially due to the stiff heel, but mostly due to the tension. I suspect this is why the Vertex took me longer to break in than any other approach/running shoe I’ve owned. During the initial break-in, I would get heel pressure almost every time I went for a walk, run, or hike. 

For anyone getting these before a trip, I’d suggest fully breaking them in on shorter runs/approaches before wearing them on anything too committing. The base has an 8mm drop (18mm heel, 10mm toe), a Vibram® XS Flash 2 sole (actual climbing shoe rubber) with 4mm lugs and a small climbing zone at the toe, and a protective toe cap. The upper is made from a tough ‘Matryx’ fabric that’s held up to granite abuse well, and brushes off moisture as well as my OR ferrosi softshell (fine for a bit, but eventually wets out). There is also a Gore-Tex version of the Vertex, though it’s not currently available in Australia/NZ. 

The Vertex has a nice level of stiffness out of the box and does a decent job of edging and smearing (especially on alpine granite). While the climbing performance is not on par with a dedicated approach shoe like the TX4 or TX Guide, it’s noticeably better than a normal trail runner. The Vertex also felt very supportive while carrying heavy loads (28kg) for extended periods on mixed terrain, even beating some other approach shoes I’ve owned. In my layman’s view (I’m not much of a runner), the Vertex seems perfectly comfy while running (once you break them in). The EVA midsole and moderate drop (8mm) provide a nice amount of padding and cushion, while the rockered sole helps offset the stiff midsole. At 340g per shoe, they’re heavier than most trail runners and comparable to normal approach shoes—unless you’re covering some serious distance, it’s not a big issue. However, due to the rigid construction of the Vertex, they don’t collapse down much once they’re off your feet and can feel a bit bulky on a harness or in a pack. 

For a shoe designed to be a ‘jack of all, master of none’, I’d say it feels most at home while scrambling. The Vertex have felt plenty secure on the different terrain I’ve thrown at them: wet rock, dry rock, loose scree, neve, tree roots, wet vegetation, mud, overhanging forest, etc. *Gear nerd alert* I’ve also experimented with adding 1.5mm carbon fibre insoles inside the Vertex to increase their stiffness when paired with my Petzl Irvis Hybrid crampons (using the Back Flex heel bail, since the Vertex have no heel welts). As janky as this sounds, I found the system to work surprisingly well, with the side benefit of increasing the edging performance on rock (the insoles, not the crampons).

Final thoughts

The Vertex Alpine is an interesting shoe that fills the niche between a trail runner and an approach shoe, striking a good balance between running and climbing/scrambling performance. As someone who tends to burn through shoes, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the durability of the Matryx fabric, the only weak points so far being some rand delamination around the toe crease (but I think from sizing/fit). My only complaints are that they take forever to break in (though climbers should be used to that) and that they’re tricky to pull onto your foot (that too). For a certain type of climber, I could see these being an excellent one-quiver shoe for fast and light missions.

This gear review originally featured in Vertical Life # 51. Grab your copy here