Arc’teryx Gamma SL Shorts: Short-Term Review
I’m a big fan of carrying a smartphone with me while climbing, usually on long multis or big days out, and sometimes on single-pitch stuff too (occasionally even bouldering). It’s how I keep an eye on the time, check topos, take action shots (butt pics), and it’s good to have for emergencies—but never in place of a PLB! On colder days, my phone tends to live in the chest pocket of my midlayer or shell (tethered with some cord or the handy Avant phone leash). But on hotter days, when I’m not wearing anything with a chest pocket, the phone goes in my shorts pocket.
There are plenty of climbing shorts on the market: OR Ferrosi, Patagonia Terravia, Prana Stretch Zion, E9, Mammut Aenergy Light, etc. My issue with most of them is that the pockets aren’t well thought out and lack zips (a cardinal sin that goes double for climbing pants), and the few that do have zippered pockets are shaped so poorly that anything weighty runs around like a bull in a china shop. For the longest time, my favourite climbing shorts were a random pair made of Pertex that I picked up for cheap. They dried quickly, climbed well, and most importantly (for me), the zippered pockets kept my phone well positioned while in a harness… they have since fallen apart.
The Gamma SL shorts are available in both a 9” and 11” inseam, depending on where you’d prefer your tan lines. I went with the 11” in a size 30 and found the cut slightly roomier compared to Gamma pants (which I wear in a 32), though your mileage may vary. The patterning features the usual gusseted crotch and a slightly baggy bum (or maybe that’s just me), which helps keep the fit mobile and unrestrictive while climbing, without looking too crazy if you’re out in public. This, combined with the stretchy Fortius 1.0 softshell material, makes these extremely easy to move around in. Softshell shorts and pants can sometimes feel like the material is tugging at you while stretching, but the Gamma shorts have felt extremely easy to stretch, offering very little resistance once you hit the limit of the patterning in a deep squat, stem, or high step.
The Gamma SLs are on the lighter side at just 205 g (hence their SL, or “Superlight,” status), featuring only two zippered waist pockets and one zippered thigh pocket, all of which are mesh. It’s worth noting that the two waist pockets are stitched on, while the thigh pocket is entirely glued on and probably best utilised for lighter items. In terms of phone carry, I’ve been very happy with the design of the waist pocket. It’s sized and positioned in such a way that my standard-sized iPhone (146 × 71 mm) sits neatly away from my leg loop, doesn’t bounce around while climbing (or even running), can’t rotate horizontally, but is still easily retrievable while wearing a harness. For use with a phone tether, I’d replace the zipper pull tab with some 1 mm Dyneema cord or similar. Apart from the pockets, you get a zippered fly, snap closure, and an integrated belt (which is a bit mediocre). The belt uses a G-hook buckle that comes undone a bit too easily (why are my shorts suddenly loose?) and digs in under the hipbelt of a pack (so far it’s been fine under a harness). The belt is also stitched in, but could be replaced if you’re happy to cut or unpick some stitches. It’s usable, but you’d expect a more thoughtful design for the price.
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For such lightweight material (125 gsm), I’ve been impressed with how well the double-woven Fortius fabric has held up to abrasion (on both rock and fibreglass), and it’s yet to yield to a padless kneebar. The Gamma SLs also breathe well during high output (they’re shorts) and have done an adequate job of resisting wind and rain (but also… they’re shorts). When they do eventually wet out, as all softshells do, I’ve found they don’t hold much moisture and tend to dry fairly quickly, particularly if you’re on the move (it’s the same fabric as the Gamma SL hoody). One funny quirk is a very audible swishing sound the material makes while moving—possibly a dealbreaker for ninjas and those with easily annoyed partners.
Final thoughts:
The Gamma SLs are a sleek and lightweight pair of softshell shorts that stand out when it comes to mobility and zippered pockets you’d actually want to use while climbing. The lightweight material is effortlessly stretchy, holds up well against abrasion, and dries quickly if you get caught out. My only complaints are that the integrated belt design needs some refining, and the material is a touch noisy. These quirks aside, they’ve quickly become my favourite shorts to climb in. For those who tend to carry a phone while climbing, this is one of the better options out there and easy to recommend.
Overview:
RRP: $200.00
Pros:
- Effortlessly stretchy
- Climbing-friendly pockets
- Lightweight (205g)
Cons:
- Mediocre integrated belt
- Noisy
Best suited for:
Those wanting lightweight softshell shorts that move well while climbing and have climber-friendly pockets for carrying a phone on routes.
Other reviews that may interest you:
Field tested: Arc’teryx Vertex Alpine Review
