Petzl Neox Review – A Smoother Alternative to the GriGri?

This is not a GriGri! It may look like a GriGri, but it’s not… The Neox is Petzl’s newest cam-assisted belay device, and although it looks suspiciously familiar it’s still not a GriGri. The GriGri has become an iconic belay device in climbing since its release 33 years ago, but not without criticism. The most common complaint you’ll hear is that belayers must learn/use a specific ‘thumb press’ technique when feeding slack quickly (or even slowly with some thicker ropes). This means newer users tend to ‘short-rope’ their climber when trying to feed slack quickly—usually right when you’re cruxing out trying to clip! This is where the Neox comes in. Petzl’s intention with the Neox was to create a device that belays like an ATC but catches like a GriGri. So…does it?

Features/Design:

The design is very similar to that of a GriGri, but instead of the fixed metal piece in the centre, there is a spinning wheel with 8 flat spots within its groove (technically making it a spinning octagon). This wheel (octagon) rotates freely while passing rope through the device, allowing you to feed slack extremely smoothly. If the climber falls or the rope is weighted, then the wheel is pushed up into a ‘blocking stop’ and stops spinning, causing the cam to pivot and pinch the rope, just like with a standard GriGri (provided you’re holding the brake rope). Everything else about the Neox is practically the same, apart from a few aesthetic differences. It has the same lever for lowering/descending, is still compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm dynamic single ropes, and still comes in classic Petzl orange (there is also a silver or black version). One difference worth noting though is the weight. That spinning octagon adds around 62g, meaning the Neox weighs 237g (on our scales), compared to the 175g GriGri (and 200g GriGri+) – weight weenies be warned! 

Function/use case:

So can we #FeelTheDifference as Petzl has put it? Yes, absolutely. If you compare feeding with a GriGri vs Neox, the Neox feels dramatically smoother…buttery even! This was even more noticeable with thicker ropes. If you try yanking on the climber’s end you’ll also notice it takes a bit more force to make the Neox ‘lock up’. While belaying, the Neox lets you feed slack without needing to touch the device (without ‘thumb pressing’)…most of the time. It’s still possible to short-rope the climber if they yank on the rope hard enough or you get caught off guard while they’re clipping, so it’s not a substitute for poor belaying. Speaking of poor belaying, Petzl has really emphasised that you must always hold the brake side of the rope with the Neox (the same is true for any device). They even engraved this on the front of the device. I suspect this is mostly for the European market since here people are taught to ‘never let go of the break rope’. Nevertheless, I wouldn’t recommend handing a Neox to someone unless you’re sure they’re a competent belayer. The Neox can also be used to top belay on a multi-pitch, though it wouldn’t be my first choice as I find the back-feeding of slack more annoying than with a GriGri (the same goes for top-roping). One interesting quirk we noticed was the clacking noise the Neox makes when taking up slack quickly or while the rope is weighted. Petzl says this noise is normal and is caused by rope tension making the wheel rub against the blocking stops. While it may be ‘normal’, this noise is a bit unsettling the first few times you hear it coming from your new $295 belay device, and could be annoying for some users. 

Final Thoughts:

I think Petzl has designed a great product with the Neox. The hard part of reviewing it has been trying to figure out who it’s best suited for. I’ve heard some people claim the Neox is a device for only experienced climbers and belayers, which I find a bit puzzling. I think most belayers who’ve spent enough time using a GriGri and mastered the ‘thumb press’ technique are comfortable enough doing it quickly that they rarely short-rope their climber. Climbers who use skinny ropes (≤9.1mm) also won’t feel as much of a need for the Neox, since skinny ropes tend to run quite smoothly through a GriGri. I see the Neox being more appealing (and useful) for belayers who aren’t fluent with the GriGri ‘thumb press’ technique, but value its features as a cam-assisted device, or for those who use thicker ropes that tend to be a bit ‘sticky’ with a GriGri. Overall the Neox is a great device that does what it says on the packet. My only real complaints were the clacking noises it can make, and the fact that it’s more expensive than a GriGri but less versatile. 

Overall, I’d rate it 4 out of 5 blue offsets.