Patagonia Nano-Air Ultralight Hoody
From The Field: Short-Term Review
I’ve had a Nano-Air Light pullover hoody for some time now (you know, the orange and blue one Steve House wore in a bunch of videos). I recall the ad campaign for the Nano-Air being something along the lines of “put it on, keep it on”—a mantra I would optimistically recite in my head until I inevitably overheated and was forced to take it off (it’s not the hoody’s fault, I just run hot…call it user error).
The Nano-Air Light (which featured 40g/m2 of Fullrange insulation) was supposedly launched because enough users and ambassadors (including Mikey Schaefer) were complaining that the OG Nano-Air (featuring 60g/m2) was too warm for most of their climbing activities. So imagine my surprise upon hearing the latest addition to the Nano-Air family (the Nano-Air Ultralight or ‘NAUL’) would feature just 20g/m2 of Fullrange insulation!
Fit: Fits and cuts can be very specific to the user (and perhaps I’m not the ideal reviewer to be commenting on this at 6’1 with a +9 ape index), but I feel most climbers would agree that the NAUL feels like it was made for climbing. The body is slimmer cut than usual for Patagonia with a long hem that sits nice and low beneath a harness. This combined with the stretchy face fabric and exceptional shoulder articulation (possibly the standout part of this piece) help keep it from untucking on all but the most contorted of moves. The hood fits best over a helmet and can feel a bit baggy without one—in lieu of a hood cinch they’ve placed strategic elastic around the brim which prevents it from blocking your view. The front zipper also comes up a bit higher than most of my other jackets, which helps create a pseudo balaclava of sorts, locking in some extra warmth. This is all a welcome change to the boxy, “town-friendly” cuts that have become far too common amongst supposedly technical apparel.
Comparing it to the cut of the R1 pullover (post 2015 version) it has a slightly shorter hem and more room for layering in the same size (men’s medium). I sometimes find my R1 pullover a bit faffy to get on (picture wetsuit maneuvers), so I’ve found myself appreciating the full length zipper. The NAUL also has two panels of stretchy Capilene Cool fabric under the forearms, which allows you to easily push the sleeves up past your elbows without accidentally creating your own makeshift BFR (Blood Flow Restriction) training device. Unfortunately these Capilene panels have also stretched out and gone baggy around the wrist after just a few months of sleeve pushing.
Features: By virtue of being an ‘ultralight’ jacket (253g on my scales), this is also an ultra minimal jacket. You’ll find no handwarmer pockets or hood/waist cinches here, just a single chest pocket that feels big enough to fit around three iPhones horizontally. The pocket also doubles as a stuff sack with a loop for racking it, though I doubt you’d feel the need to. This lack of frills will no doubt annoy some people, but they’re missing the point. The obvious downside of being so ultralight is the durability. I wouldn’t call the 30d recycled polyester shell fabric delicate, but I can’t see it holding up to abuse as well as a softshell or fleece if you happen across some granite offwidths.
Keep in mind though, all the holes I’ve managed to rip in my Patagonia gear have been repaired (without charge) under their Ironclad Guarantee, so I’m usually happy to make the trade off.
Function: On paper, the closest competitor to this jacket is the Arc’teryx Atom SL, and yet I keep finding myself comparing it to the R1 Pullover (it feels like they’re fighting for the same spot in my layering system). Before moving onto that; the Atom SL feels slightly warmer (40g/m2 Coreloft Stretch) and less air permeable than the NAUL (cuts more wind), but comes in a bit heavier (280g) and has a less athletic cut with less shoulder mobility. Comparing the NAUL to my R1 Pullover (301g), it feels more wind resistant (63.2 CFM according to Patagonia) but not as warm and I find myself overheating in it far less, if at all.
It also has un-insulated panels along the underarms and sides of the body, which helps give the excellent balance of breathability/venting and wind resistance. I would compare wearing the NAUL with a short sleeve baselayer to wearing an R1 without a baselayer in terms of warmth. The R1 has better sweat wicking/moisture management, but is noticeably slower to dry, and neither layer is particularly water resistant (the NAUL holds off a light drizzle for slightly longer). In keeping with the ultralight theme, it’s best paired with a Houdini windshell in wilder conditions.
Final thoughts:
To me, the NAUL truly captures the “put it on, keep it on” mentality that Patagonia promised in the original Nano-Air ads. Even though it’s bright orange (they also come in dark grey) I feel like I’ve barely taken it off since receiving one a few months ago, and it’s the most I’ve ever been able to climb in a jacket without overheating (maybe on par with a vest). I have several active layers which fill this niche, a couple which arguably look more versatile on paper, and yet I keep gravitating towards the NAUL.
The 20g/m2 of Fullrange insulation feels like the sweet spot for active pieces in this part of the world, and as much as I love the R1 Pullover (it’s still the GOAT), the NAUL gets a place in my pack for more of the year. My only complaint is that double edged sword that is the Capilene cuffs being easy to push above my forearms, but getting stretched out because I keep pushing them over my forearms. Everything about this jacket screams “meant for climbing” and we love it.
Overall, I’d rate it 4.6 out of 5 blue offsets
RRP: $399.95
Pros:
- Versatile
- Excellent breathability
- Climber cut
Cons:
- Cuffs bag out
- Less durable than an R1
Best suited for:
Those wanting a versatile and highly breathable layer that excels in high-output use in a variety of conditions.
Check out some more gear reviews:
Patagonia M10 Storm Jacket Review
Is Your Rain Jacket Harming the Planet? Patagonia Has the Fix
